1. Starting out with too small of an aquarium. A small aquarium can be more difficult to maintain than a larger one and are not well-suited to beginners. Conditions like Ph, Ammonia and Nitrate and tend to be more stable in larger aquariums, and is easier to control, or more time to correct them if something goes wrong. Aquariums volumes of 70 liters to 200 lites or 20 to 55 gallons, are ideal for a first time aquarist. Always start with the largest aquarium your space and budget will allow for best results as a new aquarist.
2. Not cycling the aquarium. It takes time to establish the biological balance in an aquarium. It takes about 2-4 weeks depending on the size of your aquarium and how many plants you’ve planted. There are however, products, on the market that can help speed up this process, the safest way to cycle a newly set up aquarium is to 1) Add just a few fish initially after one week, (if you have another tank you can use some of the bacteria from the filter into the new tank in order to kickstart it), 2) feed sparingly and 3) Test ammonia and nitrite levels until they stabilize at zero before adding more fish. Repeat this process until the aquarium is fully stocked.
3. Buying fish on the same day as the aquarium. NEVER DO THIS! A newly set up aquarium is not ready for fish on the first day. A new aquarium set up should be run for a minimum of 3 days up to a week before the first fish are introduced. Then try with a few Guppies first. Because they are sensitive fish. So if the Guppies make it, almost any thing will make it. If they survive the first week, you can stock whit whatever you want, as long as it’s suitable for your aquarium that is. Yes, I said “almost” any thing will make it, because there are a few species that are very sensitive to water quality so make sure you’ve done your research before you buy your fish.
4. Adding too many fish to a new aquarium. A new aquarium is a biological clean slate. The microbes that filter water and create balance in the aquarium are not established and a sudden overload of fish waste can cause toxic ammonia and nitrite levels to rise to dangerous and even lethal levels. This can also result in a longer than normal cycling period. There is a “key-rule” to fallow – 1 cm fish per 1 liter water, or 1 gallon divided by 2,5, make sure to extract the volume of sand and decor though. So in a 55 gallon tank you can stock it with 60 inches of fish in total if you have substrate and decor. If it’s a clean tank with only water you can have 80 inches of fish in total. Translates to 160 cm to 200 cm in a 200 liter aquarium. But lesser is best!
5. Not testing water in a new aquarium. It’s impossible to know if ammonia or nitrite problems are developing or if it’s safe to add fish to your new aquarium without testing water. Existing fish often adjust to slowly rising ammonia and nitrite levels and may not show signs of distress until it’s too late. New purchases can be severely stressed if added to an aquarium with high levels because they do not have time to adjust. That’s why it’s always better to wait a week before adding fish. There is no magic “safe” time interval for adding new fish, but the longer you wait the safer it will be, and you can’t see ammonia or nitrite in water. Testing is the only way to know if your aquarium water is safe. I always wait one week before adding fish and I have NEVER had any issues what so ever. Sometimes I “jumpstart” a new aquarium with filter material from a already cycled tank.
6. Overstocking. When you’re new to fish keeping, you want to buy every fish you see. We all do it! But there is a limit to how many fish a new aquarium can hold, regardless of how large it is or how efficient the filter is. Many fish grow larger after they are purchased, and some fish are territorial and become aggressive when crowded with other fish and some gets eaten. Always decide of having fewer fish in your aquarium rather than too many. Instead of having to many fish in one tank, buy another tank. And it will happen! That’s a given! Think like so – Volume of Water Divided by 2,5 = Gives how many inch of fish you can have per gallon. For example: 1 gallon = (3,6/2,5=1,44) 1,4 inches of fish. I’d say 1,5 inch. Minus the substrate, you’ll probably end up with 1,0 inch per gallon. You will get a lot more out of the fish behavior and your satisfaction if you fallow this “key-rule”!
7. Overfeeding. It’s normal to worry about your fishes going hungry, but you can cause more harm by feeding too much. A new aquarium should be fed once a day and all food should be consumed within two minutes. Uneaten food will pollute the water and cause ammonia and nitrite levels to rise. To lower it in a biological manner you can have a lot of plants in your aquarium because it will act as nutrients for the plants.
8. Buying a filter that is too small. You can’t really over-filter an aquarium, but it’s fairly easy to under-filter one. But if it is too strong filtration you’re plants could suffer and some fish will not like it and cause stress. Most aquarium filters are rated according to how many liters/gallons the aquarium holds. This rating system works well for the most part, however, heavily populated aquariums, or those with large predatory fish or fish that generate large amounts of waste should be fitted with oversized or multiple filters. For best results, purchase a filter that is rated for an aquarium a little larger than the one you own. Or think, it needs to circle the aquarium volume 4-5 times as much per hour. If you use sponges, like many breeders do, use a sponge that filters 3-4 times the aquarium volume.
9. Seeking advice from too many sources. It’s important to research equipment and livestock purchases before making them but asking the same question of a number of different “experts” can sometimes result in confusion because everyone has a different opinion or method for success. When you’re new to aquarium keeping, it’s hard to know what techniques will work best for you. Stick with one reliable source of information at first, like your local zoo-store, and follow their advice until you feel confident enough to try things on your own.
10. Compromising quality for price. No one wants to overpay for anything, but the saying “You get what you pay for” often applies in the aquarium trade and with your initial fish tank set up. Reliable, quality equipment may cost a little more, but your fishes’ lives depend on it. And your satisfaction too! Because how wants to buy stuff that brakes easy or pets that dies on you buy the first month?
11. Impulse buying. Always research new fish before purchasing them to make sure to always, always research if they are compatible with existing inhabitants and will not outgrow your aquarium. Some fish have special water chemistry needs such as lower pH or alkalinity, which your tap water may not provide. Also, if the fishes you are considering buying are specialized feeders, so you can make sure to be able to provide the proper food for them.
12. Leaving the aquarium light on to long or all the time. Like all animals, fish need a resting period, and it should be the same period every day. Even fish needs sleep! In nature the day/night cycle is fairly consistent, especially in the tropics. Leaving the aquarium light on to long or even all the time stresses your fish and also contributes to unsightly algae growth. Use a timer! Putting your aquarium light on a timer is an easy way to provide a consistent light cycle. The light should be on only 6-8 hours per day/night cycle. 10 hour at the most if needed. Normal daylight will provide the rest of the necessary light. If the aquarium is used as a night light in a child’s bedroom, turn the light off and draw the curtains during the day to simulate night time for your fish.
13. Over cleaning. When an aquarium is first set up, the biological balance is fragile and unstable. Avoid scrubbing ornaments, stirring or vacuuming the gravel or cleaning the filter when it doesn’t really need it, as this can destroy beneficial bacteria and upset the start of a good balance. If your aquarium or filter seems to need cleaning in the first 2 to 3 weeks after setup, the filter may be too small for the job, or you may have too many fish, or you may be overfeeding. Write in your calendar every time you feed your fish the first month to see if your sticking to the plan of once a day, even on weekends. Check how many fish per volume you have in your aquarium. See if the sponge filters 3 times the volume or if the hang on back filter or external filter, whatever you have for filtration, filters 4-5 times the volume of water per hour.
14. Topping off for evaporation instead of doing a water change. Adding water to your aquarium when it evaporates is called “topping off”. Doing this instead of performing a water change on a regular basis will result in an accumulation of pollutants such as nitrate and phosphate and a drop in pH and alkalinity. This stresses your fish and leaves them more susceptible to disease. Change 10% of the water in your aquarium every week or 25% every 2 weeks. If it’s a large aquarium change 30% every week. I change all tanks from 250 liters / 70 gallons, and above, with a weekly 30% water change.
15. Insufficient cover. Aquarium decorations provide habitat, and make your fish feel secure, it reduce stress and enhances their colours. Fish often hide because there are not enough decorations in the aquarium, seeking refuge behind a heater, filter tube or other object. Plants and floating plants and a bit dim lighting can also make fishes feel more secure. It’s also very beautiful to look at and it is more natural.
Go fish!
Cheers!
The Aquatic Studio! 
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